ANDFrom this article you will learn how to get from Trabzon to the unrealistically beautiful mountain monastery of Panagia Sumela (Sümela Manastiri) in Turkey, and also about whether this trip is worth the time spent.
Two lines from the history of an ancient monastery
This Orthodox monastery whose name means "The Holy One from Mount Mela", according to publicly available information, was founded at the end of the 4th century AD. For many centuries, the miraculous icon of the Mother of God Panagia Sumela, allegedly painted by the Apostle Luke himself, was kept in the monastery.
The icon was taken out by the Greeks only at the beginning of the last century - in 1923 as part of the Greek-Turkish population exchange, a forced exchange that affected the fate of about 2 million people. This happened after the defeat of Greece in the Second Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922.
In fact, monastic life in the monastery ceased from that time. And only for the first time since 1923, in 2010, the Turkish authorities allowed worship to be held in the monastery.
The road to the monastery and the cost of visiting
The monastery itself and its surroundings are extremely picturesque, therefore, being in Trabzon for at least a day, be sure to visit this place. We were able to appreciate the beauty of the area even in conditions of not very comfortable weather.
I advise you to allocate four hours for a trip from Trabzon and back. We went on a self guided tour in the morning.
A minibus, like a fixed-route taxi, covers a distance of about 50 km - from the center of Trabzon, from Ataturk Square - Atatürk Alani, to the monastery in about 1 hour.
Our driver stopped several times along the way in picturesque places so that tourists could take photos and smoke.
Ticket price round trip from Trabzon to the monastery is 25 lira. lift cost descent from the parking lot directly to the monastery - 5 lire, and monastery entrance fee — 10 lira.
The ticket was purchased directly from the driver, and the hotel employee from the reception arranged for the minibus to stop near our hotel.
How was an independent excursion to Panagia Sumela
I want to point out right away that our trip took place even before the closing of the monastery for reconstruction. In 2019, most of the reconstruction work of the monastery has already been completed. And although the final completion of the restoration of the monastery complex is planned for 2020, the monastery is again open to tourists.
However, it should be taken into account that there is a difference in the excursion programs before the reconstruction period and existing today. I will talk about this later.
The driver who brought us to see the monastery allocated about one hour, which at the first moment we did not like, because it smelled of package tourism.
But, as it turned out later, this time was enough to explore all the few rooms available for visiting, take a walk near the shrine and sit and drink tea with Turkish sweets stored in advance.
Tourists were allowed to visit only a limited number of premises, and, by and large, there was not much to see there.
The only thing that deserves attention from where it was allowed to enter is the outer part of the entrance to one of the premises of the monastery. Interestingly, in many places on the walls, both inside and outside, chips are visible - as if someone wanted to destroy the images ...
In general, the area near the monastery is very picturesque - I want to constantly take pictures. However, no more than that. The weather during our visit was far from rosy.
It was either rain or wind outside, in a word, it was not comfortable, and there was no mood to explore a large territory. In addition, it seemed to us somehow wild and, at least visually, difficult to pass.
And there was also a time limit. And to stay there, not knowing whether the bass would come today or not, we had no significant desire. Perhaps, in more suitable weather conditions of the year, someone will want to explore the nearby area. And we were already waiting for the majestic Istanbul…
Yes .. Down at the foot of the monastery there is a good, but not cheap restaurant and houses where you can spend the night. We did not go into the houses themselves, but, according to the servants, there is Internet there and the cost for living is quite moderate from 50 lira.
As I already said, the monastery of Panagia Sumela is officially open to tourists and entrance tickets are actively sold. However, renovations are in full swing and you may be disappointed if you buy a ticket. You will not see frescoes and murals, but you will be able to see only one staircase leading to the repair facilities.
However, time is running fast, work is moving. Therefore, check the current information on the trip advisor, but do not postpone the trip. The place itself is very impressive and charismatic. But if you want to get more impressions right now, then consider a trip to the ancient Turkish city of Kaymakli. There you will not only see many unique Christian frescoes, but also discover entire underground cities and ancient settlements. Learn more: read the article “Cappadocia on your own: what and how to see a tourist?”
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