Laos

Si Phan Don: 4000 islands of Laos

Si Phan Don in Laos is just that earthly paradise that you don’t want to leave. An archipelago of 4,000 islands rising above the Mekong River in the southern part laos, combines rural charm with the exotic beauty of Southeast Asia.

Islands and life of the Si Phan Don archipelago

Just a short boat ride from the Cambodian border, the glittering Mekong expands and gives way to a breathtakingly beautiful archipelago. No doubt, it was here, in the province of Champasak, that time decided to suspend its flight.

Islands in Si Phan Don
The coast of the islands in Si Phan Don

Among the many islands there is Don Det, "intended" for tourism, and its older sisters Don Khon and Don Khong, wilder and more cautious. With the exception of a few scooters carrying some trinkets, everyone travels by boat, on foot or by bicycle along the green paths of the islands and rare roads.

Residents of Don Det village
Image: Villagers of Don Det

The unflappable denizens of this Laotian Eden still greet you with the warm smile that their Thai neighbors were famous for before they began to indiscriminately develop mass tourism.

Back to basics on the banks of the Mekong

More recently, the ancient and venerable "Land of a Million Elephants" hosted a million tourists within its borders during the year. The Laos mini-boom pales in comparison to the numbers that Thailand, its hegemonic neighbor, boasts with more than fifteen million visitors a year.

Beautiful flowering bush on the island
Image: Beautiful flowering bush on the island

In Laos, upgrading the various infrastructure networks takes time, a lot of time. In Si Phan Don, for example, there was no electricity until early 2009. With electricity came a huge number of televisions, allowing every family to watch Thai and Vietnamese soap operas daily.

As for the Internet, it is trying slowly and hard to conquer this territory, far from everything. In fact, this region is a hell for those who are fond of modern technology, and a paradise for travelers who want to recharge their batteries in the bosom of nature.

Late evening in the island village of Don Det
Image: Late evening in the island village of Don Det

4,000 islands continue their peaceful journey through the dry and rainy seasons, away from the technological extravagance of Western society. Here, the only alarm clock is a rooster living near the villagers and a handful of tourists starting to increase, attracted by the spartan charm of a warm and gentle rural stay.

Paradise will soon be lost?

Don Det seems to be starting to fall prey to his own success. This islet, which can be explored on foot in less than two hours, has changed drastically in ten years. All houses now have small businesses and rooms for rent; they also serve as miniature tourist offices.

Old village on Don Det island
Image: Old village on Don Det island

About a dozen of the original bungalows have grown twentyfold in size thanks to their simple appeal: 30-50 thousand kip (about 2-4 euros) is enough for a bamboo hut on stilts with a shared toilet and camping-style cold showers; warm weather makes this lifestyle possible.

In terms of tourism, the people of Don Det quickly realized that their island has what it takes to be the perfect destination for travelers of all ages. Some local residents have begun to build more comfortable dwellings with bathrooms and air conditioning.

Evening in a settlement on Don Hong Island
Image: Evening in a settlement on Don Hong Island

Connected by a narrow colonial-era stone bridge, Don Khon Island is wilder with its bamboo forest and beautiful waterfalls. There are also a few rooms to rent here and there, but this is no match for its popular little neighbor.

We can only pray that nothing will change; it is generally accepted that the atmosphere on Don Khon resembles that of Don Det ten years ago. From the southern tip of this island, you can see Cambodia and, if you're lucky, a few Irrawaddy dolphins, an endangered freshwater species.

Si Phan Don: islands and time

The 4000 Islands is often visited as a relaxing getaway during a tour of Southeast Asia or at the end of a visit to luxurious cultural attractions in northern Laos.

Sunset Si Phan Don
Image: Sunset Si Phan Don

You go there, thinking that you will rest for two or three days, just to take a breath, but then you realize that you have already been there for a week, held by the unique atmosphere of this place. In Si Phan Don, hammocks are a must, and sleep time can be increased. Similarly, every restaurateur makes it clear that patience is needed. It does not matter - in this paradise, time is the most valuable commodity.

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